Q. I also heard there is no noticable difference between 1080i vs 720p when your set less than 50"
A. LCD - This is the everyman HDTV. Its mass produced, cost effective, low on power consumption, and just what people "know." LCD monitors in computers make it a more familiar product for many. Its SD playback tends to be a bit sharp/crisp; think the evening news (this isn't good vs bad, this is personal taste). Its colors tend to be a bit more muted (again not good vs bad, just taste). LCDs have a matte finish for the viewing surface (the edge around it can be glossy though depending on model).
LCD's are inherently bad with motion playback. The suffer from motion blur (ghost trails). This is why you see "better" ones advertised with 120Hz or 240Hz refresh rates. The improved refresh rates are an attempt to overcome that inherent flaw.
LCD's will give you weaker blacks, colors, and contrasts on the whole. This is why you see the proliferation of the LED LCD. That technological step alleviates those LCD problems.
Plasma TVs inherently give you better blacks, colors, and contrast. They are also inherently strong in motion playback as their refresh rate is near instantaneous (like a CRT). Plasma colors tend to have more pop to them (not good vs bad, just taste). Plasma SD tends to be a bit softer (think Hollywood films); again not good vs bad, just personal taste.
Plasmas should be conditioned though. For the first 100-200 hours of operation you want to keep the contrast and brightness cranked way down. Then optimize and enjoy. This isn't necessary persay, but most "nerd" consumer groups will tell you to do it for paranoia sake.
Plasma TVs are a shiny finish though, so in rooms with light control problems that finish can create reflection problems. Plasma technology on the whole does use more power than LCD. But not all models are made equal, so one must do some homework. And worst case scenario, a "very bad" Plasma TV would likely only cost you $40 more per year in electricity bills (and again not all models are made equal).
Plasma myth (1) - They experience burn-in. This is inaccurate, those days are gone. Just condition the gasses and then use it as normal and you're fine. Also, the better sets have built-in features to prevent this (on top of the technology just generally being better now than say 5 years ago).
Plasma myth (2) - They have short life spans. This is another inaccuracy. Most are now rated in the 60,000-100,000 hours range. At 8 hours a day 365 days a year that would mean a life of 20-30 years. So do you think you'll still want/own the same TV in 15 years, let alone 30?
Plasma myth (3) - They won't work in high altitude because of problems for the gasses. This is again no longer an issue. Current Plasmas can be purchased and used in mile high Denver, and above, so you'll be fine where ever you are (unless you're living in the Himalayas).
720 vs 1080 - There is no set size on when it matters. Typically though its though that anything under 40" definitely doesn't show any of the advantages of 1080. 40" - 50" is the grey area where some argue it matters and others say maybe a bit or not so much. 50" and above you definitely want native 1920x1080 resolution for your TV, as the advantages will become noticeable.
Damn almost forgot... DLP Rear Projection. The image quality, on all levels, is fairly close to Plasma. It would be at par with it if it wasn't a dying technology. Mitsubishi is the last developer of the technology after Samsung recently announced they were giving up on it. So Plasma is just getting more R&D and advancements than DLP. That said though DLP is still a rock solid image.
Its often joked that DLP will be the last TV you ever own. That refers to the expectation that the TV will still work until its actually physically falling apart (decades). But the bulbs in it need to be constantly replaced. Depending on the bulb and your TV usage, it could last anywhere from 1 year to realistically 4 years. Replacing is something you can do on your own easily enough. A new bulb though costs $200-$250 or higher. Also, some sets have air filters that you should clean every month or two. So there is certainly an inconvenience factor in owning the sets.
LCD's are inherently bad with motion playback. The suffer from motion blur (ghost trails). This is why you see "better" ones advertised with 120Hz or 240Hz refresh rates. The improved refresh rates are an attempt to overcome that inherent flaw.
LCD's will give you weaker blacks, colors, and contrasts on the whole. This is why you see the proliferation of the LED LCD. That technological step alleviates those LCD problems.
Plasma TVs inherently give you better blacks, colors, and contrast. They are also inherently strong in motion playback as their refresh rate is near instantaneous (like a CRT). Plasma colors tend to have more pop to them (not good vs bad, just taste). Plasma SD tends to be a bit softer (think Hollywood films); again not good vs bad, just personal taste.
Plasmas should be conditioned though. For the first 100-200 hours of operation you want to keep the contrast and brightness cranked way down. Then optimize and enjoy. This isn't necessary persay, but most "nerd" consumer groups will tell you to do it for paranoia sake.
Plasma TVs are a shiny finish though, so in rooms with light control problems that finish can create reflection problems. Plasma technology on the whole does use more power than LCD. But not all models are made equal, so one must do some homework. And worst case scenario, a "very bad" Plasma TV would likely only cost you $40 more per year in electricity bills (and again not all models are made equal).
Plasma myth (1) - They experience burn-in. This is inaccurate, those days are gone. Just condition the gasses and then use it as normal and you're fine. Also, the better sets have built-in features to prevent this (on top of the technology just generally being better now than say 5 years ago).
Plasma myth (2) - They have short life spans. This is another inaccuracy. Most are now rated in the 60,000-100,000 hours range. At 8 hours a day 365 days a year that would mean a life of 20-30 years. So do you think you'll still want/own the same TV in 15 years, let alone 30?
Plasma myth (3) - They won't work in high altitude because of problems for the gasses. This is again no longer an issue. Current Plasmas can be purchased and used in mile high Denver, and above, so you'll be fine where ever you are (unless you're living in the Himalayas).
720 vs 1080 - There is no set size on when it matters. Typically though its though that anything under 40" definitely doesn't show any of the advantages of 1080. 40" - 50" is the grey area where some argue it matters and others say maybe a bit or not so much. 50" and above you definitely want native 1920x1080 resolution for your TV, as the advantages will become noticeable.
Damn almost forgot... DLP Rear Projection. The image quality, on all levels, is fairly close to Plasma. It would be at par with it if it wasn't a dying technology. Mitsubishi is the last developer of the technology after Samsung recently announced they were giving up on it. So Plasma is just getting more R&D and advancements than DLP. That said though DLP is still a rock solid image.
Its often joked that DLP will be the last TV you ever own. That refers to the expectation that the TV will still work until its actually physically falling apart (decades). But the bulbs in it need to be constantly replaced. Depending on the bulb and your TV usage, it could last anywhere from 1 year to realistically 4 years. Replacing is something you can do on your own easily enough. A new bulb though costs $200-$250 or higher. Also, some sets have air filters that you should clean every month or two. So there is certainly an inconvenience factor in owning the sets.
How do I play NTSC PS1 games on my PAL PS3?
Q. I have a few PS1 NTSC games that I wanna play on my PS3 (I have a modded PS1 but it isn't as clear on my HDTV.) Everytime I stick a disc, the PS tunes me about the regional codes and stuff, how do I prevent that? P.S... THESE ARE ORIGINAL GAMES, NOT COPIED OR FAKES.
A. HD on PS3 have no PAL/NTSC problems but if you use the regular composite cable then there will be problems.
HDMI usage also must be complemented with HDCP compliant HDTV or any HD display such as PC Monitors/LCD's or no display at all.
Using Component cables gives you resolution up to 1080p on games but only max 720p on movies.
(Using Regular Composite cables supplied with PS3) PAL games will not run on NTSC PS3 via regular NTSC TV
(except for PAL games that are programmed by developers to support both PAL and NTSC signals) and vice versa.
Hope that answered your questioned !
HDMI usage also must be complemented with HDCP compliant HDTV or any HD display such as PC Monitors/LCD's or no display at all.
Using Component cables gives you resolution up to 1080p on games but only max 720p on movies.
(Using Regular Composite cables supplied with PS3) PAL games will not run on NTSC PS3 via regular NTSC TV
(except for PAL games that are programmed by developers to support both PAL and NTSC signals) and vice versa.
Hope that answered your questioned !
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